Dinner Is Served by Books for Cooks

Books for Cooks has published their Catalogue 3. It was issued for the Antiquarian Booksellers Association of Japan's Tokyo International Book Fair. There are some Japanese culinary items offered though the largest part comes from France. Books for Cooks is an Australian bookseller so this is an international affair. Items are priced in Australian dollars and yen. One more thing – while technically not for cooks, there are many books related to wine here, especially from France. Sure, there is cooking wine, but these aren't about wines you use for that purpose. They are to accompany the dishes the cook is cooking up. Here are a few selections from this catalogue.

We will start with dessert, since that's what everyone is waiting for. Part of the lengthy title of this confectioner's book is Le confiseur moderne, ou l'art du confiseur et du distillateur, contenant Toutes les operations du Confiseur et du Distillateur, et en outre, les procedes generaux de quelques Arts qui s'y rapportent, particulierement ceux du Parfumeur et du Lemonadier . Ouvrage enrichi de plusieurs recettes nouvelles, et mis a la portee de tout amateur, avec les moyens de reconnaitre les falsifications et les sophistications en tout genre... (The modern confectioner, or the art of the confectioner and the distiller, containing all the operations of the confectioner and the distiller, and in addition, the general processes of some Arts which relate to them, particularly those of the Perfumer and the Lemonader. Work enriched with several new recipes, and placed within the reach of any amateur, with the means to recognize falsifications and sophistications of all kinds)... The author, J.J. Machet, was concerned that other confectioners were hiding their complete recipes as a means of avoiding competition. He was determined to teach others how to prepare sweets and other items. In a presentation unusual for its day, he begins his recipes with a list of ingredients, which others often failed to disclose. His book is divided into five sections covering a wide range of recipes. It describes basic items, sugar and chocolate, biscuits, cakes, candied fruit and almonds, and jams. It then moves on to distillation and equipment needed to produce items like liqueurs, vinegar, oils and creams. It concludes with recipes for perfumes and cosmetics, soaps and lip pomade, along with drinks such as lemonade. An appendix describes herbal remedies for minor ailments, including an upset stomach (useful if you eat too much of the confections). Offered is the 1821 fourth edition of a book first published in 1803. Little is known about Machet other than he says he has worked as a confectioner for twenty years, both in Paris and abroad. Item 17. Priced at AU $975 (Australian dollars or approximately $630 in U.S. dollars).

Next is an album of illustrations of the Fete de Vignerons (winegrowers festival) in Vevey, Switzerland. It depicts the procession of winegrowers and others associated with the trade from the festival of 1889. They are seen marching, riding horse-drawn carriages and parade floats, even an elephant. The festival goes back many centuries, to beginnings now unknown. By the 18^th century, it was a regular occurrence, being held every three years. The Brotherhood of Winegrowers sponsored the festivals which rewarded the best winegrowers. By the end of the 17^th century, the festivals were reduced to a once-a-generation schedule. Starting with that of 1797, there have only been 12 winegrowers festivals, gaps running around twenty years, though that number changes, depending on when the winegrowers decide to schedule one. The last was held in 2019, so we can anticipate the next around 2040. While Vevey celebrates its wines, it is also home to the company noted for making a different drink - hot chocolate, Nestle. Item 1. AU $795 (US $515).

The title of this book is Etudes sur le vin, ses maladies, causes qui les provoquent, procédés nouveaux pour le conserver et pour le vieillir (studies on wine, its diseases, causes which provoke them, new processes for preserving and aging it). This book was extremely important for wine making, but its influence ran far beyond wine making alone. It did more than make wine taste better; it saved countless lives. The author was Louis Pasteur, this being his first book. Pasteur had been asked by French Emperor Napoleon III to find a solution to wine going sour. France had begun exporting the product to England, but its turning sour was hurting sales. Pasteur concluded that what was making the wine go bad was tiny microorganisms. He determined that these microorganisms could be killed by raising the temperature of the wine to a certain level. This was the start of what became known as pasteurization, and its use to preserve milk is one of the greatest developments ever in food preservation. First edition, published in 1866. Item 28. AU $1,950 (US $1,262).

In the 18^th century, gender roles were much more clearly defined. If you were a woman, you almost certainly would hold the position known as “housewife.” In that time, this book was enormously popular. First published in 1727, this 1753 edition was already the fifteenth. The 18^th century was also a time of very long book titles, and this was no exception: The Compleat Housewife: or, Accomplish'd Gentlewoman's Companion: Being a collection of upwards of six hundred of the most approved receipts in cookery, pastry, confectionary, preserving, pickles, cakes, creams, jellies, made wines, cordials. And also bills of fare for every month in the year. : To which is added, a collection of near two hundred family receipts of medicines; viz. drinks, syrups, salves, ointments, and many other things of sovereign and approved efficacy in most distempers, pains, aches, wounds, sores, &c. never before made publick in these parts; fit either for private families, or such publick-spirited gentlewomen as would be beneficent to their poor neighbors. The author was experienced as a professional housekeeper and cook in various fashionable and royal households, where she employed her recipes. Her targeted audience was not so much the aristocracy, but not the poor peasants of the countryside either (though readers might be “beneficent to their poor neighbors”). They were people of reasonable means looking to manage a household exhibiting good taste. The breadth of topics covered indicates Ms. Smith must have been quite a knowledgeable homemaker. Item 36. AU $1,200 (US $777).

Westerners may have trouble coming up with the name of a Japanese dish, but here is one most people probably know. This is a pamphlet titled Sukiyaki: a dainty Japanese dish. It was produced by the N.Y.K. Line, a Japanese shipping and passenger transporter. It was used in the “First class dining room of M.S. Asuma Mareu.” It sailed between the Orient and California. At least once on each trip, there would be a “Sukiyaki party on board.” They created “a Japanese atmosphere on board and in the conditions as near as possible to those in Japan.” My mother made sukiyaki, learned from a Japanese friend. I have no idea how authentic it was, but it was very good – worthy of a party. Item 22. AU $250 (US $162).

Books for Cooks may be reached at +61 3 8415 1415 or shop@booksforcooks.com.au. Their website is www.booksforcooks.com.au.